Nomos Tangente – ETA 7001

For those of you that follow me on Instagram, you would have seen my recent post of a Nomos Tangente that came through my shop and the sad instance of the case destruction.

I have decided to expand on the repair and document the progress of the watch. It seems that you readers enjoy these posts and expect more to come in the future.

The first thing I noticed was the case. A “watchmaker’ had previously serviced the watch and this is the condition it was given back in. The worst part, they actually charged for the service! Needless to say, it wasn’t looking good for the rest of the watch.

They hadn’t even bothered to replace the damaged gasket which was still covered in metal shavings.

The case back wasn’t the only part to bear the brunt of the hack at work. The lugs had actually been bent and damaged quite badly.

I managed to file the case back to the correct shape again and polish it up so as to make the watch look more presentable.

Here is another picture of the back after repair.

I put the watch on the timing machine and the result were terrible. Clearly a full overhaul was needed.

Sadly, the movement did not escape the destruction. The bridges and screws were horribly scratched. Unlike the case, there isn’t much I can do here to repair the damage short of ordering new bridges from Nomos.

More shots of the damaged movement.

When removing a bridge or cock from a movement, I always use brass or bronze tweezers as that will minimize the risk of any damage. Also, I remove them as the picture here shows. This will avoid unnecessary marking of the plates.

As you can see above, the balance pivots are completely dry. The oil ring inside the jewel should be touching the edge of the brass spring as pictured below.

Here is the result after cleaning and re lubricating

The picture above shows the escape wheel before cleaning. As you can see, the lubricant is on top of the teeth, which is not where it should be. It is also around the back of the teeth, which do not come into contact with the pallet stones so it has no reason to be there.

Here is the escapement after cleaning and lubrication. Notice how the lubricant is in the correct spot.

The balance spring also needed adjusting. If you look at the above picture you will see the space between the coils is not even on both sides. This means the balance spring will not ‘breathe’ evenly.

The balance spring after adjustment.

Here is a shot of the hands when the watch came in. Notice how they don’t line up at 12 o’clock.

Correctly fitted hands.

It is also important to make sure the hands are flat, parallel with the dial and each other.

The final result on the timing machine. The watch will now be cased and tested for 72 hours to ensure accuracy.

Whilst most of the damage was able to be rectified, some was not. I hope this post serves as yet another reminder to choose a trusted watchmaker who will treat your timepiece with the respect it deserves.

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